Starting a New Lawn

Soil preparation is the key to developing a good lawn. Soil that is properly conditioned will be easier to maintain and cost a lot less to keep-up now and in the future.

Two other important considerations are drainage patterns and contouring the lawn so it looks nice and drains properly. Always establish drainage patterns so the water runs away from structures, not toward them. And, establish contours that look nice and are easy to maintain.

Decide what type of lawn you want. Do you want a tough, durable lawn for children to play on; a durable but nice looking lawn; or an attractive show type lawn. The type of seed or sod that you use will be determined by whichever type of lawn you desire.

To get started on the right footing you need to have your soil tested. What is needed in fertilizer; is it necessary to add top soil; is the soil acid or alkaline; what’s needed to improve the quality of the soil? All these and other questions are quickly answered by observing the soil texture and by having the soil tested. The local Cooperative Extension Service has the forms and information on soil testing, and can advise you of the costs and time involved in getting the test results. Or, there are independent soil testing laboratories where you can have the testing done. In addition, there are soil test kits that you can purchase and do the testing yourself.

Whether you seed, sod or hydro-seed there are a few basic steps you need to accomplish first, to get the soil ready for planting:

1. Remove sticks, stones, large weeds and debris.
2. Obvious high and low areas can be leveled by simply scraping off the high spots, or filling in the low spots.
3. Next, rototill the seed bed to a depth of six to eight inches. Do it in two directions if possible.
4. Rough rake to remove stones and debris brought to the surface by the rototilling.
5. If it is necessary to add top soil or any soil amendments like Sawdust or Bark to break-up clay or hardpan, this is the time to do it.
6. Apply a lawn fertilizer like 12-4-8, 15-5-10, 9-3-6 or similar formula. Your local garden store may have other equally suitable formulas for new lawn construction.
7. Rototill again mixing the fertilizer, top soil (if added) into the seed bed.
8. Finish rake (holding the rake very upright and just skimming the surface) to remove debris and stones that have been brought to the surface by this rototilling.
9. Next, roll the entire area with a water-filled lawn roller. Rental agencies and many garden outlets have these lawn rollers available on a daily rental basis.
10. Now you should take a weighted ladder or frame made of 4 X 4’s and drag the entire area to establish drainage patterns and contours.
11. Lightly surface rake again if needed.
12. Make a light application of fertilizer on the surface using the same type of fertilizer as before.

At this point the lawn is ready to be seeded, hydro-seeded or sodded. Some of the steps as outlined above may not be necessary, depending upon soil conditions, so eliminate those steps.

If you are seeding, spread the seed then lightly cover with about one sixteenth on an inch of peat moss. Then roll again with a lawn roller only half filled with water.

If you are sodding, simply lay the sod, cut-out for flower and shrub beds and roll with half filled lawn roller.

If you are having the lawn hydro-seeded, everything is ready to go.

Whether you seed, sod or hydro-seed the entire area should be fenced-off with a string or wire fence to keep the children and animals off the soft ground until the seed or sod has taken hold.

Keep the entire area moist until the seed germinates or sod has become re-established.

Growing Lawns Under Trees

One of the most difficult places to try to grow a nice looking lawn is under tall trees. So, if you have a few tall trees in your garden and you want to keep your lawn really looking nice under them, here are a few basic garden maintenance procedures you will have to observe each year. Proper feeding, liming, adequate watering and yearly overseeding are prime factors in successfully growing lawn under trees.

The shade from over-spreading branches and the encroachment of roots into the soil area of your lawn are the two major factors that make it difficult to grow lawn under trees. The heavy shade and soil acidity, plus insufficient nutrients are the main reasons why moss is so prevalent in the lawn areas under the taller growing trees.

Here are a few ideas on ways that you can go about improving the soil under tall trees so your lawn will grow properly and really look nice.

It isn’t uncommon to find surface tree roots right in the lawn area. This is because they grow to the surface where they can get the water and nutrients you are applying on the lawn so this condition should be corrected. One of the easiest ways to do this is to perforate with a crowbar or piece of pipe to a depth of about 12 to 18 inches or more. Next, put a tree fertilizer down the holes to encourage the tree roots to grow deeper. The side benefits of this procedure is that it helps to anchor the tree roots and also gets them down deeper to a depth where they can rely more upon Mother Nature’s natural soil moisture and nutrients.

Since the grass roots are competing with the feeder roots of your taller growing trees, the lawn area will require more frequent feeding under the trees. In fact, it is a good procedure to apply a lawn fertilizer in those areas about once every six weeks. It is recommended that a fertilizer with a ratio of 3-1-2 be used to feed the lawn under trees. To make this simpler, a 12-4-8 or 9-3-6, or similar formula would conform with the 3-1-2 ratio. Apply the lawn fertilizer according to label instructions being certain to water thoroughly after application.

The soil in the lawn area under tall trees often tends to be quite acid so it is a good practice to make an application of agricultural or dolomite lime at least once a year, in either spring or fall. The growth of moss in any of these areas will indicate the need for lime. If moss is prevalent a lawn moss killer can be applied to help eliminate what moss is there.

It’s not unusual for the lawn area under tall trees to require more watering attention than the rest of the lawn. This is due mainly to the fact that the dominate tree roots rob both water and nutrients from the grass plants. Perforation of the lawn area with a lawn perforating tool will help to get the moisture down to the grass roots quicker.

One of the most important steps in establishing a thicker, greener turf under trees is that of reseeding each year. Actually the process is called over-seeding, for you simply broadcast new seed over the established lawn. The best time to do this is anytime between mid-March and late October.. For over-seeding use approximately one pound of seed per 1,000 square feet of lawn area. Keep the soil moist until the seed germinates. Use a seed mix that blends with the rest of your lawn area. Generally, you will find a fescue blend of grass seed will do best in the shady locations of your lawn..

Needles or leaves that fall from the tall trees should be removed periodically from under the tree so they do not smother the lawn grass blades. Simply rake them off and add them to the compost pile.

You can start right now getting those lawn areas under tall tree in shape by making an application of lime, perforating, and following with the application of a fall or winter-type of lawn fertilizer. Over-seeding should wait until warmer spring weather arrives.

Be sure to keep off the lawn as much as possible during frost or freezing weather. Instead, accomplish these lawn renovation projects when the weather is moderate.

By giving a little extra care to the lawn areas under your tall trees you can keep them looking as nice as the rest of your lawn.

Lawn Q&A

 I think I have sent the moles packing with the caster oil formula. I am now left with a yard with many dirt mounds and runways that have sunk or collapsed. What remains of the grass is in good shape but the lawn is rutted and has the tell tale signs of mole hills.

 The problem with tilling and then replanting is that you have to contend with the sod and roots of the previous planting. I think it’s best to top dress with topsoil or a combination of topsoil and sand, then reseed those areas. Use the same type/brand of seed, as you did before.

Another way is to pull back the sod, fill in the low areas with topsoil, and then replace the turf. I know this is more work, but it looks nice right away. It also means the entire lawn remains the same.

Our front lawn is fairly small with tall trees. We have extensive moss in the lawn, mostly moss in fact. If we get rid of the moss and plant more grass, won’t we still have the moss problem because of the shade?

Yes, moss grows because of one (or more ) of four reasons; shade, acid soil, lack of fertilizer (the trees may be using it up), or clay or hardpan soil. Whatever is causing the moss to grow, must be corrected in order to keep it under control. If you have multiple problems, correcting some of them (and leaving the trees in place) should reduce your moss problem.

Reseeding the lawn after using a fertilizer/moss killer will help fill in the bare spots where the moss was flourishing. If you can establish a thick, lush stand of turf, it will help conceal the remaining moss (even if it does grow). If you cannot see it, who cares?

I’ve read a lot about basic lawn care. I have found the solution to my problem is to lime my lawn. How do I lime my lawn, how much, what’s the best application, can I over seed it afterwards? How will it affect my fertilizer schedule?

 If you use Dolomite Lime, it is compatible with fertilizers, so it should not affect your fertilizing schedule. Lime should be applied in either the spring or fall, following application directions on the label. Apply it with a fertilizer spreader. Usually it is applied at a rate of 40 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn area. You can overseed anytime between April 1st and October 15th. (The early and late parts of that range are best because of watering concerns.)

 I have recently moved on to some acreage owned by my in-laws in the country and am in the process of trying to grow some grass. I have turned the dirt and planted Bermuda seeds but am just infected with weeds, weeds and more weeds. I need to do something quick because those weeds are probably sucking up all my water when I water the yard. I have just cut the entire yard and my question to you is what can I buy to kill those weeds!!!! Is there some kind of liquid I can spray on them or what.

Often the first weeds up in a new lawn are annual weeds that will disappear after the first two or three mowings. In other words, you might not have the problem you think you have. Why not take a few of the different types of weeds to a local garden outlet for an on the spot diagnosis. They can determine whether they are annual weeds or a perennial type that you may need to control. If they are perennial weeds, they can show you the type of product that is used to control weeds in a new lawn. Standard weed control products are too strong for a new lawn and cannot be used.

We have a fairly large yard with tall pine trees on each side. (just moved in last July) I have noticed that the grass is dying out away from them. It looks like it is dying in the shape of the tree branches. The trees are large pine trees and the lowest limbs are way above our heads. We keep the needles raked up. There are few needles where the grass is dying. Your website suggested lime and aeration along with reseeding. Is this all I really need to do? There is hardly any grass at all in these areas but the rest of the lawn is lush and green.

That will really help fill in the turf, but you will also have to watch the watering closely, because the pines are thirsty trees. Also feed the lawn , under the tree, with a liquid fertilizer, as it is then taken up thru the grass blades.

I have a problem that is getting out of hand and thought maybe you could give me some advice. I have four dogs that are tearing my back lawn up pretty good. I have some fairly large areas that are devoid of grass altogether. I was wondering if you could recommend a lawn seed that is fast growing and extremely tough. I’m not particularly concerned with how it looks as long as it is green and covers the ground. I live in the northeastern part of Ohio (Zone 7).

 A “bent” type grass is recommended for problems of this nature. It seems the most unlikely species to use, but bent roots grow throughout the year and respond to wear better than others.

How long (short or long) should the last mowing of the fall be. Some say very short and some say very long.

I cut my lawn at 1 inch. If you cut it long, with fall and winter rains it begins to lay-down and the chances of disease and a thatch build-up are greatly increased.

I live in the Seattle area and my lawn has turned pale green. Should I use a low nitrogen fertilizer now, or wait until spring?

Research specialists have stated that the best time of the entire year to feed the lawn is December 1st. The reasoning is that it helps develop a deep rooting system and improve color at the same time. So, I would suggest that you go ahead and use a fall or winter type of lawn fertilizer, now.